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Plot Twist: a writing workshop and carefully curated creative adventure across Scotland and Yorkshire, September 1-7, 2025

Write the mystery, thriller, or suspense novel you never knew you were going to start, while we gallivant for a week across Scotland and Yorkshire being mentored by a Random House and Sunday Times bestselling crime writer. We’ll stay in unique boutique hotels and a lochside lodge inside a Scottish national park. We’ll ride first class on a train route included in The World’s Most Scenic Railway Journeys, and we’ll also be inspired by dark history, dungeons, castles, moats, idyllic landscapes, and a decadence of food.

No matter your writing genre, you’re invited to join us and start work on a terrifying thriller, or cozy mystery, or page-turning suspense novel—pick your poison. Whether you’re a published author or hoping to be published, this is a chance to be daring, and spontaneous, and try new methods of working in alluring settings while having far too much fun.

Small group: just 14 participants

Plot Twist is hosted by Writers’ Expeditions and Exploring York

“Gallivant: go around from one place to another in the pursuit of pleasure or entertainment.” Oxford Languages

(Scroll down for prices and inclusions, itinerary, hosts’ bios, contacts, and more photos for Plot Twist)

(Edinburgh Castle, photo by Peter Swan)

David Mark (your writing workshop mentor): Before writing twenty-five acclaimed books, including the internationally bestselling Detective Sergeant Aector McAvoy series, David spent more than fifteen years as a journalist—and for seven of those years he was a crime reporter with The Yorkshire Post. This man knows murder, and you can tell when you read his books, which aren’t just page-turners but are superbly crafted works of literature that engage all your senses.

David is a sought-after author, performer and public speaker at literary festivals, but the fourteen of you have him all to yourselves for an entire week.

Val McDermid (Scottish crime novelist) describes David’s writing as having “more twists and turns than a corkscrew through the eyeball.” The Financial Times declares, “Aficionados of the grittiest, most trenchant fare love Mark’s copper Aector McAvoy.” Daily Mail’s Geoffrey Wansell says that David Mark’s work is “Dark, compelling crime writing of the highest order.”

(More about David, including his mugshot and a link to his books at Penguin Random House, can be found below with the hosts’ bios)

Itinerary

Monday, September 1st

York, England—founded by Romans and loved by Vikings

(Clifford’s Tower, Medieval-Norman castle keep, York, England)

From Inspiration to Publication: We’ll meet at our boutique hotel (Victorian Yorkshire meets Parisian chic) for a warm-up writing romp in the lounge or garden (weather depending) followed by “From Inspiration to Publication,” a conversation with David Mark. It’s time to start thinking about what kind of thriller or mystery you want to write, and David will discuss them all with you. Then we take to the cobbled streets inside the medieval-walled city of York, where our guide will lead us on a walk riddled with real-life historical plots and characters.

(Plot Twist: photo by Kirsten Koza, author, adventurer, humorist, and Writers’ Expeditions host)

Free time for lunch and to work on your character-hunting assignment for your book and decide whether you’ll be writing a character-driven or plot-driven mystery/thriller.

(Yorkshire Fat Rascals, photo by your guide, Matthew Greenwood, owner of Exploring York)

(Yorkshire Rarebit at Bettys (no apostrophe), photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

Cocktail hour workshop and readings.

This evening we dine together at a reputedly haunted 17th century house that used to be owned by the ropemaker who made the hangman’s noose for York Prison, but it’s now a restaurant serving a relaxed French-inspired menu featuring Yorkshire produce. The Chopping Block also happily caters to dietary requirements.

Then we’ll experience the dank depths of the infamous York Dungeons, where dark history and notorious villains come to life.

(Included: three-course dinner, York Dungeons tickets, overnight for the next two nights at Clementine’s boutique hotel)

Tuesday, September 2nd

(photo courtesy of Markenfield Hall for Writers’ Expeditions)

Pack your pen and notepads in your day bag, because today’s workshops will be on the move.

After breakfast at Clementine’s, we’ll board our minibus to head through the Yorkshire Dales to the Ripon Police Museum, which is housed in a Victorian prison.

After lunch we have a treat – we’ve been invited to a medieval, moated, manor house, one of very few still in existence, for a private tour. Markenfield Hall might also be the oldest continually inhabited home in England, and they are excited to have us visit their home. The earliest part of the house was built circa 1230. While its history is bloody, the setting is serene, making the moated manor the perfect inspiration for our settings workshop.

We’ll return to York in the afternoon, and then it is free time for writing. Our guide is a foodie and will give you restaurant recommendations.

(Included: breakfast, minibus, museum tickets, Markenfield Hall, overnight Clementine’s)

Wednesday, September 3rd

From North Yorkshire to Scotland – first class

(Royal Border Bridge, which you’ll be crossing on a train just like this one – photo by Peter Swan)

After breakfast you and your luggage will be shuttled by cabs to catch the 10:00 AM train from York to Edinburgh. The train ride is seacoast-sublime, but as you enjoy the view, you’ll also be plotting murder. We’ll arrive two and a half hours later at Edinburgh’s Waverley Station, the only train station in the world named after a work of literature. Sir Walter Scott’s Waverley novels include the books Rob Roy and Ivanhoe. In fact, Edinburgh is the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (author of Sherlock Holmes books) was even born here.

Did you know that Edinburgh Castle is built upon an extinct volcano?

(Photo by Kenny Lam, Visit Scotland)

We’ll be met by our private minibus, which will take our luggage as we wander to lunch at the corner of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh’s Old Town. After lunch (for some dark inspiration) we’ll adventure below Edinburgh’s Royal Mile to the hidden underground streets, a tangle of tenements where people lived, loved, and were murdered in the 1600s to 1800s. Fans of Rebus might remember this location, as it was used for a murder scene.

(Edinburgh, Old Town, photo by your guide, Matthew Greenwood)

We’ll then drive seven miles to the Craigie Hotel where we’ve booked the entire inn at the foot of the Pentland hills. This fabulous house, with a quirky past, was built in 1885 for a renowned zoologist (a Professor of Natural History at Edinburgh University) who did pioneering genetic (breeding) work with zebras right on the grounds (think: baby zorses, and zonkeys, or zedonks).

Afternoon and evening of writing at the hotel – don’t worry, you’ll have guidance if you need it: whether you prefer the hotel bar, or enjoying your elegant room and the insides of your eyelids from your bed, or perhaps a pot of tea on the outdoor grounds where zebras used to roam – this is your time.

Dine at your leisure in the hotel’s restaurant. After dinner we’ll share our murders from the train, and you can talk about your book ideas with David and the group if you’d like.

(included: breakfast, first class train tickets, Mary King’s Close, cabs to York Station, and private minibus, and of course the Craigie Hotel accommodation for the next two nights)

Thursday, September 4th

(Rosslyn Chapel photo by Peter Swan)

We have one daytime activity besides writing, and that is a visit to the very nearby Rosslyn Chapel (just a few minutes away), not just because it is a sensational structure, but because it is the ideal setting (you probably know why) to discuss the success of Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code, which has sold over 81 million copies.

(Photos from Cannonball Restaurant – they’ll happily cater to dietary needs)

A thrilling evening: We’ll head into Edinburgh City Centre for a three-course dinner by the castle at the award winning Cannonball Restaurant (built in 1630 and gets its name from a cannonball imbedded in one of the walls), followed by a haunted-vaults and 16th century cemetery tour, where you might note the names on some old tombstones being the same as character names in the Harry Potter books – purely coincidental, apparently.

(Photo of Edinburgh alley by Michaela Wenzler)

(Included: breakfast, Rosslyn Chapel entrances, three course dinner, ghost/vaults/cemetery tour, private minibus)

Friday, September 5th

To Loch Long & Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park we go!

(Loch Lomond, photo by Niall Hardie)

After breakfast and checkout, we’ll stop to explore Stirling Castle where Mary Queen of Scots was crowned at nine months of age (but there has been a fortress here since prehistoric times). We’ll pause for lunch along the route of our scenic drive, which will take us through Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park to Knockderry Country House Hotel, our exquisite lochside lodge, where you can hear Loch Long lapping from the front door. This loch also contains secrets (ones of global impact), which we’ll reveal to you when you’re there, or maybe you’ll witness this oddity-to-behold yourselves. We have booked the entire lodge for our mystery and thriller writing for the next two days and nights.

(Stirling Bridge and Wallace National Monument, photo by Kenny Lam, Visit Scotland)

Writing followed by workshop: fine tuning and perfecting first sentences, first pages, and titles.

Dine at your leisure at the hotel, and perhaps sample some of their fine collection of whiskeys.

(Included: breakfast, entrance to Stirling Castle, private minibus, overnight at Knockderry Country House Hotel – we’ve booked the entire inn)

(The dramatic landscape you’ll be driving through in The Trossachs today)

Saturday, September 6th

You will have all day to work on your new mystery or thriller at Knockderry Country House Hotel. You’ll be encouraged on this day to write as much as is inhumanly possible – to channel your creative demon – and write as many pages (of what is affectionately dubbed the vomit draft) as you can. All along on our writing adventure, you will have been given exercises and tips and techniques to lead up to doing just this.

(Knockderry Country House Hotel photographed by your guide, Matthew Greenwood)

Tonight we’ll have a decadent three-course meal together in our hotel’s dining room (yet another award winning restaurant) followed by readings.

(Included: Breakfast, dinner, and overnight at Knockderry Country House Hotel)

(Loch Lomond, from Luss, misty morning, photo by Kenny Lam, Visit Scotland)

Sunday, September 7th

Following breakfast and checkout, we’ll tootle around Loch Lomond in our minibus, stopping at the best vantage points until we arrive at our boat, where we’ll board and cruise to the breathtaking fjord-end of the lake.

We’ll reboard our bus, and will stop at the picture postcard village of Luss on Loch Lomond, where you can buy quality Scottish-made items, or just wander and admire the view from the dock. We’ll lunch at a traditional inn before driving back to Edinburgh, where we’ll drop each of you off at either the airport, airport hotels, or back downtown Edinburgh, or at Waverley Train Station, where we’ll wave farewell around 6:00 PM.

(breakfast, boat tour tickets, minibus)

HOSTS’ BIOS, FOLLOWED BY PRICES AND INCLUSIONS

Kirsten Koza (writing workshop host): is a humorist and adventurer. She is the author of the book, Lost in Moscow, published by Turnstone Press and dubbed by CBC radio Canada “the ultimate what-I-did-last-summer essay ever.” Kirsten edited the Travelers’ Tales (USA) humour anthology, Wake Up and Smell the Shit, and read thousands of stories for that book before narrowing it down to the 31 writers she selected for the volume. She’s had over 75 stories published in books, magazines, and newspapers around the world, and has even made the front page of Kyrgyzstan’s national newspaper after mountain biking across Kyrgyzstan during a violent revolution. She has also been repeatedly invited to speak at the American Society of Journalists and Authors annual conference in New York, on the power of social media for writers and making stories go viral.

As promised, a photo of David Mark, your murder mystery and thriller mentor. The link below his image leads to some of his books at Penguin Random House.

(Above: David Mark bestselling author, https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/authors/231321/david-mark/)

Matthew Greenwood (your guide): created his tour company, Exploring York, in 2004, out of a love for his native county of Yorkshire and his lifelong passion for travel. He has guided a wide variety of groups ranging from policemen from Sudan to venture capitalists from New Mexico and adores showing visitors from around the globe the British Isles.

When Matthew was a child he wanted to be a hotel manager and had an almost encyclopedic knowledge of international hotel chains. His interest in all things travel continued through life. He says the reason we embark on journeys is for the unknown, to make discoveries outside our realm of imagination. His own travels have circled the planet. A chance-meeting with a charity worker led to a lifetime dream-trip to Rwanda, where he walked among the mountain gorillas, something he couldn’t have imagined coming true when watching Gorillas in the Mist as a child. That trip also fed Matthew’s appetite for learning about war and atrocities and how humanity can endure and overcome. This passion has led to him taking self-study trips (what he calls holidays) to Bosnia, Serbia, Cambodia, and Vietnam, where he and Kirsten (your workshop host) met in Hanoi outside Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The two of them have been hosting creative adventures together since 2017.

Prices, Inclusions, Exclusions, and More Photos

PRICES AND INCLUSIONS: prices include hotel accommodations – full breakfasts daily – three three-course dinners – first class train ticket from York to Edinburgh – boat cruise on Loch Lomand – cab from Clementine’s to train station on day three –  all tours in itinerary – museum and historical site entrances – transportation on our own private minibus while on tours – private guide – and writing workshops.

The price for a single participant on this writing expedition (having your own delightful hotel room all to yourself) is £2800. A deposit of £200 reserves your place when you sign up – this amount is subtracted from the total. You can quickly Google the currency conversion from pounds to your country’s currency – the conversion, however, will happen on the day you make the transaction. The payments are broken down into three: the deposit when you sign up, a second payment in the spring, and the final payment in the summer before you travel.

The group size for this trip is just 14 participants! If you have questions, or would like to sign up, please email Kirsten at writers-expeditions@mail.com (and to make sure we get your email please cc: kirstenkoza@gmail.com), or message us from the Writers’ Expeditions Facebook page. We respond quickly, so if you don’t hear back within 24 hours, please check your spam.

EXCLUSIONS: Airline tickets, alcohol, lunch, and dinners that are not on the itinerary.

(Writers’ Expeditions 2024 participants with internationally bestselling crime novelist David Mark – up to no good in the back row)

(photo taken by our guide, Matthew Greenwood, in Edinburgh – note the small print)

(Night in York)

(Writers’ Expeditions’ participants riding our private minibus through the Yorkshire Dales)

(Tearoom cabinet, photo by Matthew Greenwood, your private guide for Plot Twist)

(Little Shambles, photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

(Scones and tea, photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

(2019’s writers in a village pub – photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

(A mushroom bourguignon pie at The Guy Fawkes Inn – photo by Kirsten Koza)

(York Minster, photo by Kirsten Koza, adventure travel writer, founder of Writers’ Expeditions)

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You’re invited to join our annual Vlad Dracula Expedition, a seven-day dinner party and Halloween celebration through Romania which includes our private dinner on Halloween night in the room where real-life Vlad Dracula (Vlad the Impaler) was born (inside the medieval walled town of Sighisoara), and it also includes the ultimate costume party at Bran Castle (“Dracula’s Castle”) celebrating Romania’s Day of the Dead.

2025 Expedition Dates: October 28 through November 3

Small group (sells out fast)

Scroll down past the itinerary for prices, inclusions, how to contact us, and the hosts’ biographies.

When we entered the cemetery in Sighisoara (the birthplace of Vlad Dracula) we were greeted by an Alfred Hitchcock sky. (Photo by Writers' Expeditions's photography host Christopher Campbell).
(Above photo by a Dracula Expedition photography host, Christopher Campbell, Writers’ Expeditions)

We’ve made the reservations—you just need to pack a costume and your inner child (or demon) for this howling party across Romania. Our seven-day (small group) expedition includes attending the Halloween festival on Day of the Dead, at Bran Castle (known as Dracula’s Castle, built circa 1377), which was owned by Vlad’s grandfather (Mircea the Old). And on Halloween night our group will have a private dinner in the chamber where real-life Dracula, Vlad Drăculea (known as Vlad the Impaler), was born, in 1431. We’ll be spending Halloween night at an inn of similar vintage, just a few doors down from the house where Vlad was born, inside the (UNESCO) medieval walled city of Sighișoara. We were the first people (and are the only) to ever host a Halloween dinner party in the room where Dracula was born, and each year we barely make it through cocktails before we are regaling each other with spine-tingling ghost stories and scary experiences from our lives.

We'll dine in the room where Vlad Dracula was born in 1431 (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
(We’ll dine in the room where Vlad Dracula was born in 1431. Photo by Christopher Campbell)
The ruins of Poenari (AKA Dracula's Vulture's Nest) Transylvania, Romania. (Photo by our local Romanian guide and expert)
(The ruins of Poenari AKA Dracula’s Vulture’s Nest, Transylvania, Romania. Photo by our local Romanian guide and expert)

Our Transylvanian guide (with whom I explored Romania extensively) and I have designed a journey that will take us to the best local haunts: medieval castles with gruesome history, torture chambers, moody cemeteries, all contrasted with one of the most beautiful times of year to visit Romania which will be glowing in autumn colours.

We will also be guiding you during our escapades to capture photos of a lifetime, whether you’re using a mobile device, point & shoot, or a DSLR with multiple lenses. Plus we’ll be providing you (throughout the expedition and when you get back home) with digital images of your adventures.

We’ll be joined this year by the producer and videographer of a 19-times Emmy Award winning news correspondent who will not only provide you with video of your trip but will help those who wish to shoot video like a pro, even if you’re just using a phone.

Keep scrolling for itinerary, prices, inclusions, and hosts’ bios.

Corvin Castle. (photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
(Corvin Castle. Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers’ Expeditions)
You'll see horse wagons like this on our scenic drive through Transylvania's Carpathian mountains (Photo by your host, Kirsten Koza, Writers' Expeditions)
(You’ll see horse wagons like this on our scenic drive through Transylvania’s Carpathian mountains. Photo by your host, Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)
The Beer Chariot, Bucharest. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, photography host for The Dracula Expedition)
(The Beer Chariot, Bucharest. Photo by Christopher Campbell, a photography host for The Dracula Expedition)

Day 1:  October 28th  – Meet in the lobby of our hotel, in the old town of Bucharest in the late afternoon. Next door to our hotel are the ruins of the Princely Palace, the castle that Dracula built in celebration of his own greatness or evilness. In the evening we’ll explore the historic pedways of the old town which was first settled in 70 BC and by the 1400s was the wealthiest city in Eastern Europe. Then we’ll dine at The Beer Chariot, a dazzling 19th century restaurant which is always packed with locals and boasts an extensive menu of tasty Romanian dishes. – Dinner, Overnight at Europa Royale Bucharest Hotel ****

2019's Vlad Dracula Expedition participants peruse the menus at The Beer Chariot. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
(2019’s Vlad Dracula Expedition participants peruse the menus at The Beer Chariot. Photo by Christopher Campbell)

Day 2: October 29th – After a hot buffet breakfast in the hotel’s award winning restaurant, we’ll travel along the grand boulevard outside the Palace of Parliament, the heaviest building in the world (according to Guinness World Records) and the second largest administrative building in the world (following the Pentagon), and it’s also a legacy of a more recent “Dracula,” the communist dictator Ceaușescu (executed in 1989). Then we’ll break out the treat bags for our scenic drive to Targoviste and Curtea de Arges.

The Ottoman army returned to Constantinople when they encountered 20,000 impaled corpses outside Vlad's home, Targoviste.
(The Ottoman army returned to Constantinople when they encountered 20,000 impaled corpses outside Vlad’s home, Targoviste.)

The townsfolk of Targoviste were blamed by Vlad for their involvement in the assassination of his brother by the Turks. Vlad killed nobles and enslaved the townsfolk to build his clifftop castle at Poenari. Poenari is where Vlad Dracula’s wife plunged to her death to avoid capture by the invading army of Turks. We’ll be going there tomorrow. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner – Overnight in Curtea de Arges****

A beautiful cathedral with a dark secret, at the monastery of Curtea de Arges. (Photo by Kirsten Koza)
(A beautiful cathedral with a dark secret, at the monastery of Curtea de Arges. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

Day 3: October 30th – Dracula’s Fortress (where Vlad’s first wife plunged to her death off a cliff to avoid capture) and then to the mind-blowing Transfăgărășan – The ruins of Poenari Castle (Dracula’s Fortress) are perched high on a rugged crag above the Arges river gorge. There are 1,480 stairs to Dracula’s “vulture nest.” One of our previous participants worked it out to being 100 storeys. Now, if you really think you can’t make the climb–there’s a gift shop with tables at the bottom that also sells alcohol. Please note, that due to bears in the area, sometimes we can only view the ruins from the bottom. A bear proof fence has been installed around the area, though. Following Poenari, we’ll cross the Carpathian Mountains on the Transfăgărășan Highway.

Crossing the Carpathians on the Transfagaras Highway. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
(Crossing the Carpathians on the Transfagarasan Highway. Photo by Christopher Campbell)

We then plunge further west into Transylvania to Corvin Castle where Vlad Dracula was fugitive, or some argue prisoner. This is one of the largest castles in Europe and has been host to many paranormal investigative television shows from around the world. You’ll see why, or maybe some of you will feel it. – Breakfast, lunch, dinner – Overnight in Hunedoara ****

(Corvin Castle, Hunedoara. Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions founder and host)

Day 4:  October 31st – Halloween – tonight we have a private dinner party in the room where Vlad Dracula was born in 1431! After exploring Corvin Castle and the grisly torture chambers at its gates, we’ll take a picturesque drive to Sighisoara, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

(A small sample of food on our expedition. We can cater to omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, vampires and carnivores.)

A typical salad in Romania is beyond typical. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Ribs in Sibiu, Romania (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Mushrooms and polenta, Romania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Pasta at Werk, across from Corvin Castle, Romania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Romanian pretzels in Transylvania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
The tomatoes in Romania are out of this world. (Writers' Expeditions)
The tomatoes in Romania are divine. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Traditional soup in bread bowl - Romania. (photo by Christopher Campbell)
Papanasi - Romanian dessert (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions
Romanian cabbage rolls and polenta. (photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Romanian beans - photo by Christopher Campbell - Writers' Expeditions
Hashtag sausages, Romania. (Writers' Expeditions)

Night shot on the medieval streets of Sighisoara, Romania. (Photo by Kirsten Koza, host of the Vlad Dracula Expedition)
(Night shot on the medieval streets of Sighisoara, Romania. Photo by Kirsten Koza, host of the Vlad Dracula Expedition)

We’ll be spending Halloween night inside this preserved walled town, in a medieval hotel, a few doors down the street from the house where Vlad Dracula was born in 1431, which is where we’ll be dining. After scaring each other with spine-tingling stories around the dinner table, we’ll also pay a nighttime visit to the Saxon cemetery which also has a section along its winding downhill path for soldiers who died in World War I. – Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Palinca tasting. Overnight in hotel which is over 500 years old!

Medieval covered staircase leading to the spectacular cemetery, in Sighisoara.(Photo by Christopher Campbell)
(Medieval covered staircase leading to the spectacular cemetery, in Sighisoara. Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Sighisoara, Romania. (Photo by our local guide and expert - Writers' Expeditions)
(Sighisoara, Romania. Photo by our local guide and expert – Writers’ Expeditions)

Day 5: November 1stDay of the Dead/Halloween Costume Party at Dracula’s Castle (Bran Castle) tonight! -After breakfast we’ll revisit Sighisoara’s hauntingly alluring cemetery in the daylight and will climb the town’s clocktower to see its inner workings and for a breathtaking view. Then we’ll head to our picturesque rural mountain inn in Moieciu (where we’ll be spending the next two nights), not far from Dracula’s Castle.

(We’ll be staying at a beautiful rural mountain inn in Moieciu for two nights. Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)
(Bran Castle, Dracula’s Castle, by day, photo by Kirsten Koza)

Tonight is the ultimate costume party –  at Dracula’s castle, Transylvania. Adults of all ages come from around the world for this festival. Every year they decorate the castle differently. You’ll get to photograph some fantastic costumes. Whoever wants to stay to dance into the night is welcome to do so. If anyone would rather return to the inn, they’ll be driven back to Moieciu. -Breakfast, lunch, dinner – two nights at our Transylvanian mountain inn, which although rural still has ensuite baths, wifi, and boasts delicious traditional food.

(Bran Castle, known as “Dracula’s Castle” on the night of the costume party, photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)
(One of 2023’s participants in her costume for the big night at the castle, photo by Kirsten Koza)
2019's participants at our guide's mountain lodge before heading to the Halloween party at Dracula's castle. (Writers' Expeditions - The Vlad Dracula Expedition)
(2019’s Writers’ Expeditions participants pose at our mountain lodge before heading to Dracula’s Castle)

Day 6: November 2nd – This morning we’ll sleep-in after the party, before our drive to Brasov where we’ll conquer the medieval ramparts, watchtowers, and Saxon churches (if they don’t conquer us). But best of all, this walled city boasts one of the narrowest streets in Europe. You’ll have some free time in Brasov to wander or shop, as well. Then off to Rasnov: where we’ll explore the 13th century, mountaintop fortress built by Teutonic Knights.

(Brasov, photo by Horia, our Romanian guide)
(night shot of Brasov on our 2023 expedition, photo by Kirsten Koza)

Day 7: November 3rd today we travel to Vlad the Impaler’s grave on an islandand then back to Bucharest

This morning after breakfast we’ll head away from Transylvania back to Wallachia, stopping for the climax of Vlad’s life – his death – and his unusual burial wishes.

Farewell: We’ll then drop you off (near 6:00 PM) at the airport, or in Bucharest, or at an Otopeni airport hotel, or the train station in Bucharest, for the next leg of your journey. – Breakfast, lunch, return to Bucharest 

PRICES AND INCLUSIONS (FOLLOWED BY HOST BIOS): This trip includes tons, so please do scroll down to inclusions – it is $2100 USD per person in a double/shared room for two (either twin beds available or queen/double for couples). If you want a single room and don’t want to share, the single room supplement (to have your own burp and fart space) is $250 USD for the entire trip, which is nothing more than the extra cost to have that single room. A deposit (which comes off your total) of $300 USD reserves your spot. Anyone from around the world is welcome, and you can check the currency conversion from USD to yours in a quick google search. Please contact us with questions or to join the expedition at:  writers-expeditions@mail.com (and cc kirstenkoza@gmail.com). We respond quickly (if you don’t hear back within 24 hours, check your spam bin). You can also message us at our Writers’ Expeditions Facebook Page.

Inclusions:

  • All accommodation (the delightful inns are small and unique – three and four star, with private bath, and wifi)
  • All meals (don’t blame us if you gain weight – the food in Romania is fabulous, and you’re the one ordering what you want from the menus)
  • Photography and videography sessions for those who wish
  • Professional digital images of your journey
  • video of your adventure
  • Writing tips for any who wish (however, please note this is a roving dinner party and photography adventure, not a writing workshop)
  • All transfers and transportation on tours
  • English-speaking, Transylvanian guide
  • Our own driver and private vehicle
  • All entrance fees to castles and museums

Exclusions:

  • Airfare
  • Alcohol
  • Visa (only needed for some countries)

Kirsten describes your hosts:

(Kirsten Koza, a collage of selected published works)

Kirsten Koza: I’m your host and expedition designer and am a professional adventure travel writer, photographer, author, humourist and journalist. I ruthlessly pretest the Writers’ Expeditions trips to find the best local guides, tour operators, and unique adventures, so you can have a great experience. I’ve had more than seventy-five stories (and my photos) published in books, magazines, and newspapers around the world, on topics as varied as going inside the largest Syrian refugee camp, bullfighting, cannibalism, tornado chasing, mountain biking, dildos, dictators, Putin, gluten, mutants, and politics. I’ve even made the front page of Kyrgyzstan’s national newspaper after mountain biking across their republic during a revolution. I’m the author of Lost in Moscow: A Brat in the USSR and edited the Traveler’s Tales anthology Wake Up and Smell the Shit: Hilarious Travel Disasters, Monstrous Toilets, and a Demon Dildo.

(And this is a selfie I took of myself in my costume in 2023 at Dracula’s Castle on the night of the party–Kirsten Koza)

Our Romanian guide, Horia:

(Our Romanian guide, Horia, on the left. Photo by Kirsten Koza during 2023’s expedition)

I first met Horia in 2004 (over twenty years ago – wow), when he had just finished his degree in tourism, and he took me on a mountain biking adventure across Transylvania, Romania. He’s one of my favourite guides on this planet, and he now also owns a beautiful mountain hotel, not far from Bran Castle (“Dracula’s Castle”). We’ve been running this expedition for a decade now, and every year Horia adds a new treat. He also is a fabulous story-teller and is just so relaxed and cool that he didn’t even drop his camera when he punched an approaching wild bear on its nose. You can ask him to show you the video when we’re in Romania.

(Drake: Producer, Videographer, Editor, Photographer – on set in Manhattan)

Drake-ula”works as a video producer, editor, and all-around camera and tech expert for 19x Emmy Award Winning reporter John Stossel who you probably remember as a correspondent and anchor on ABC’s 20/20.

Drake will be making a video of your adventure and helping you to capture your own as well.

He regularly produces short documentary style videos that get millions of views on social media.

His work has helped expose unconstitutional overreach, cronies and corruption (like a government seizing an old man’s home, selling it, and keeping the profits over just $8 in unpaid taxes. Yes, really. $8. That’s not a typo).

Drake has worked on video interviews with big names across all sides of different issues like: whistleblower Edward Snowden (and the man who wanted Snowden executed: Former CIA Director Mike Pompeo), former NBA star Enes Kanter, the controversial Jordan B Peterson, Republican Senator Rand Paul, and presidential candidate Robert F. Kennedy Jr.

___________

And we leave you with some photos of Halloween costumes, food and fun from past expeditions and a three-minute documentary made by Kyle Keyser, a former Dracula Expedition participant from 2016 (who is hosting for us in 2024) and is now airline pilot. Turn up your speakers for it! The Dracula Expedition Video!

Bucharest police patrolling on Segways - Romania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Full moon over Bucharest. (Writers' Expeditions)
Night falls at the cemetery in Sighisoara, Romania (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Halloween party goers at Bran Castle (Dracula's castle), Transylvania, Romania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell for Writers' Expeditions)
Transylvania, Romania, Heroes' Cross, Caraiman Peak (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Halloween 2016 food meat balls
A Roma tinsmith, Romania (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
We're invited into a gypsy home for fun and drinks. (Writers' Expeditions)
Chris and Kirsten, your Vlad Dracula expedition hosts (Writers' Expeditions)
Repeating pattern, photography tips, at Curtea de Arges, 2018 (Writers' Expeditions - Christopher Campbell)
2017 Vlad Dracula Expedition participant in Sighisoara. (Writers' Expeditions)
2018 Writers' Expeditions group shot after getting ready to go to the halloween party at Bran Castle.
Halloween party 2017 group shot. (Writers' Expeditions)
Papanasi, a donut-like dessert made fresh and served piping hot, in Romanian restaurants. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Autumn colours and snow capped Carpathians. (Photo by Kirsten Koza)
Halloween group shot 2016 (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Bran Castle courtyard during the Halloween party (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
2019 Dracula Expedition, Sighisoara
Sibiu, Romania. (photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Climbing the stairs to Dracula's fortress. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
Writers' Expeditions, Sighisoara, (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Palace of Parliament, Bucharest. Stairs. (Photo by Christopher Campbell for Writers' Expeditions)
Bram Stoker's Dracula at Vlad Dracula's costume party with a 2016 participant. (Writers' Expeditions)
Pink waffle truck, Brasov, Romania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell, Writers' Expeditions)
2018 Vlad Dracula participants in their vampire costumes.
Beer at the Beer Chariot, Bucharest. (Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers' Expeditions)
Romania, 2018, view from Rasnov. (Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers' Expeditions)
Outside the torture exhibit, Vlad Dracula Expedition. (Writers' Expeditions)
Writers' Expeditions, Targoviste, Romania. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Picturesque drive in Romania. (Photo by Kirsten Koza of Writers' Expeditions)
Palinca tasting in Sighisoara. (Writers' Expeditions)
Horse wagons are a common in Romania (Photo by Kirsten Koza)
Fountains in Sibiu - past Writers' Expeditions participants. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Kirsten Koza, your Vlad Dracula Expedition host, hanging with Vlad. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
Dracula's "vulture's nest" (Photo by Kirsten Koza)
Sighisoara, Romania - this medieval walled city is a UNESCO site (Photo by Christopher Campbell for Writers' Expeditions)
Our Vlad Dracula Expedition group, from 2015, getting ready for the Halloween party at Bran Castle, Transylvania. (Writers' Expeditions)
Vlad Dracula Expedition, palinca toast, Writers' Expeditions, Bucharest.
Local made Romanian cheese aged in tree bark. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
The menu called the dish fourskins. You can imagine the jokes. (Photo by Christopher Campbell)
The Beer Chariot, Romania (Photo by Christopher Campbell for Writers' Expeditions)
In the town square of Sighisoara (Photo by Christopher Campbell, 2016)

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That Time a Stranger Joined My Honeymoon

story and photos by Kirsten Koza

(first published in Perceptive Travel Magazine – USA)

Spring 1990: Malcolm, my ex-boyfriend, was on one knee amongst the rubble in my East London room. My bedroom was basically a walk-in closet where I kept a toppling tower of swords and tap dancing shoes. The only good things about my flat were my eccentric roommates, it was across from a pub, and it was just a five-minute stagger to East 15 Acting School where I was currently performing in Shakespeare’s Pericles.

Malcolm, a Civil Engineer, had flown from his orderly home, north of Toronto, to spend Easter with me in England, and I hadn’t even tossed my clothes into my wardrobe. He was holding an emerald ring. “Would you…?”

My flat was one-hundred percent slum. I’m not being overly dramatic. It was so bad that after we’d been broken into, a London Bobby walked into my un-ransacked room and said, “My-my, look what they did in here!”

Why was Malcolm kneeling? I wanted to kick him.

“Kirsten, will you marry me?”

I could say no. I was twenty-three and Malc, twenty-six. What was the rush? This was a logistical nightmare. Why was he looking at me all doe-eyed? Beam me up, Scotty. I fidgeted on the edge of my crappy single bed. I didn’t even have a toilet seat in my flat. Koza to Enterprise. Malc had gained weight since I saw him in January.

“Yes.”

I still wanted to kick him.

Malcolm obviously didn’t know what to say next. “Your production of Pericles was ummm…”

Um is polite.” It was the worst show I’d ever been in.

Kirsten Koza and her post grad classmates at East 15 Acting School, 1989.

Off to Sicily

It took Malcolm one day to decide he wasn’t spending his holiday in East London. I’d urged him to bring his mountain bike to the UK. That morning he’d left his bicycle at my place while I was at the college, and he took the tube into London. Malcolm returned with plane tickets to Sicily, a map, and a copy of The Rough Guide. This was to be our honeymoon, since we were already overseas and were going to be married in just a few months.

That very same night Malc was refilling his bike tires beside the baggage carousel at Palermo’s airport, and I was fiddling with my broken gear shifter.

“Hello. Do you want some riding company?” An Englishman in his late thirties had wheeled over his beat-up touring bike. He wore jeans with clips around the ankles.

“Sure. Which way are you heading?” Malc stuck out his hand.

“Towards Trapani, along the coast, but just to a nearby hotel for tonight.” The stranger looked at me. “I’m Christopher Crawley.” He saw me eyeing the bug nets attached to his bike. “Entomologist, with the British Museum. Everyone just calls me Crawley.”

“Kirsten and Malcolm,” Malc replied. “We’re heading towards Mount Etna. Opposite direction.” He pulled his map from his pack.

“You know, the traffic will be quite thick that way. Towards Trapani is much quieter and less populated this time of year.” Crawley peered over Malcolm’s shoulder at the map.

“Hmm,” Malcolm pondered. “Maybe we should go the way you’re going.”

I frowned. I really wanted to see an active volcano. And I really didn’t want to travel with Christopher Crawley.

“It’s eleven-thirty. Might as well go find a hotel. Maybe we should share a room to save money,” the entomologist suggested.

“Great idea!” Malcolm clapped Crawley on the back.

What? Had Malc just invited this stranger to share a room with us on our honeymoon? Oh, my God! He had! I shot dagger-eyes at Malcolm. He didn’t receive my message.

A Threesome on the Road Together

Two days later, we were still biking and bunking with the bug doctor. An old lady in black was showing us our room in the Spaghetti Western village of Scopello.

I was shivering after the pedal in pelting rain along the rugged coast from Castellammare. I jumped under a blanket on one of the many beds that butted end to end along the walls. If you opened the desk drawer, I bet you’d have found a bed.

The lady said something about no heat. “What?” I wailed as she left. Crawley rifled through his bags. He’d be used to freezing; the museum paid diddly-squat. He probably had some fingerless, Scrooge-gloves in his panniers.

Malcolm stripped off his wet clothes. I looked at his Schwarzenegger-like chest with disinterest. Crawley was watching him too. I decided to grab a shower before either of them used the hot water.

“We’ll just have to have some grappa,” Crawley pulled the hooch from his bag.

“Tutto, tutto!” Another old lady in black was stooped over my mixing bowl of penne “Tutto!” She motioned for me to keep eating. Why wouldn’t she leave? I rammed another forkful into my mouth. I raised my wineglass in salute. She smiled and backed towards the pensioni’s kitchen.

“Excuse me.” Crawley got up to go to the loo.

As soon as he was out of earshot Malcolm grabbed my arm. “Crawley proposed a threesome while you were in the bath.”

Wine filled my sinuses. “Pardon?” I spluttered. “What the hell did you say?” I blotted red wine off my turquoise jacket.

“I reminded him we’re engaged.”

“So! He’s married!” This was not what I expected from a mild-mannered entomologist who wore bike clips around his trousers. “Is he interested in guys too? How would it work?” I suddenly realized Crawley had been looking at Malcolm perhaps differently than I’d assumed. I’d thought it was muscle envy. How were we going to share a room with him now?

“I told him that I had no interest. He’s fine with it.”

“Well, I’m not.” I chugged the rest of my wine. “There hasn’t been a hint. How long has he has been thinking about this? Maybe that’s why he hooked up with us in the first place.”

Creepy Crawley was coming back to the table. I flushed tomato red. I waved to the old lady who was peeking from the kitchen door. “Grappa?” I called to her.

Tucked in our beds in the bone-chilling pensioni, the air was thick with tension. I couldn’t sleep. Malcolm was horny. I could tell by the object poking into my back. No way was I going to have sex. I could feel Crawley listening in the dark. I closed my eyes and called for the starship Enterprise.

At breakfast Crawley suggested we all go down to the abandoned tonnara for a swim. But after breakfast Malcolm bailed. He was sick and wanted to stay in bed. So, now I was down at the stony beach with Crawley—just me, and Creepy Crawley. The cliffs and old buildings loomed over us. The entomologist was puffing on a cigarette. I didn’t know what to say. I decided to go for a dip. I shed my clothes down to my black one-piece and tiptoed into the March Mediterranean. My breath was whacked out of me by the cold. I went deeper and a wave came over my shoulders. That was enough. I went back to my towel and Crawley.

“Can I bum a smoke?” Malc hated it when I smoked.

“Certainly. How’s the water?”

“Invigorating.” My hands shook as I tried to light up.

“Well, I guess I might as well.” Crawley stripped down to his underpants. Then, right in front of me, off came his boxers. I looked away. I looked back. Holy cannoli, the man was hung like a donkey, a stallion, a blue whale!

Crawley hobbled over the rocks. I stared at his white buttocks. I was in a state of shock, induced by the sheer mass of his manhood.

“Woah.” Crawley had entered the sea. “Wo—” a wave had lapped his privates. He ducked under. He turned around and walked towards me. The icy temperature had done nothing to the size of his penis, nothing! It still swung near knee-level. Where had he been hiding that beast? I looked at my cigarette. I looked at the historic towers on the cliffs. My gaze drifted over Crawley again and then darted quickly up to the fluffy, white, clouds.

Sicilian Longevity on Display

Crawley and I returned to the pensioni to get Malcolm for lunch. Malc rolled over in bed. So, Crawley and I decided to go for a beer. We sat at an outdoor table at the Scopello bar inhaling springtime between cigarettes. This was uncomfortable. And it was all due to this threesome thing, and well, now, the image of bug-man’s penis kept flashing through my mind.

“Do you want another?” Crawley pointed to my third beer.

“I think I’m done, or I’m going to fall asleep.” I snuffed my cigarette.

“Why don’t we go lie on the grass?” Crawley nodded towards the small park beside the patio.

“Sure.”

We paid and moved five feet over onto the grass. Just as we sat, a smoke billowing bus, belched open its doors and boisterous Sicilian seniors erupted from within. A couple of young women helped the more decrepit onto benches. Another heaved wicker baskets covered in brightly coloured fabric.

“Something tells me these people have their own teeth,” Crawley whispered. Huge lengths of chewy Italian bread were being sliced open. There were whole prosciuttos, capocollos and salamis. There was a wheel of cheese that could support the bus. There were stuffed tomatoes, slices of roasted eggplant and red peppers dripping in olive oil. Mount Etna sized sandwiches were erected and spilled filling like lava.

One of the young women handed sandwiches to Crawley and me.

“Guess how many years have I!” A spry old man in a charcoal three-piece suit danced before me. “What you say if I say ninety-nine years? My birthday next week and I have big party. You come!”

“I was going to guess seventy.” I was flabbergasted.

The old man kissed my cheeks. “Ninety-nine!” he bellowed. There was raucous applause. This was so unlike any North American nursing-home outing.

“My secret? It’s the olive oil!” The man who was almost a hundred beamed.

“Pomodori!” An old lady hollered.

Another yelled, “É tutto il vino!” and they all laughed.

“She said it’s all the wine he drinks,” Crawley translated.

“You guess how old my wife!” The spry man pointed to the woman who’d shouted about the wine.

“You all look so young.”

His wife dumped cookies in my lap. “Mangiate.”

“She ninety. I’m older,” the old man boasted.

She slapped her husband. “Ogni bel gioco dura poco.”

Crawley chuckled, “She just said, basically, that all good things come to an end.”

I was happy for Crawley’s company. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss this for the world. I was getting past the threesome thing too and his enormous penis. Or perhaps I was drunk.

A Collector of Stories

Decades later: It was Malc’s and my anniversary. We were in our unorderly kitchen, north of Toronto. My mess was everywhere; nothing had changed. I told Malc about the elderly couple in Scopello. Then I reminded him that he invited a stranger to join us on our honeymoon. “Why did you do that?” I demanded. “Come clean. You still do this. I hate it.”

Malc paused. “Because I’m a collector too, but unlike Crawley, I don’t kill my specimens. I like hearing strangers’ stories. Anyway, that wasn’t our honeymoon. It was before the wedding.”

“But you don’t do anything with the stories.” I was baffled.

“I remember them. You invite strangers now too. You do it bigger. You invited ten women from the internet to bike the Andes with you.”

Crap. He was right. Maybe things did change. Maybe I’d changed. “Let’s go to Sicily. You owe me a honeymoon because according to you, we didn’t have one.”

“Really long flight.” Malc looked unenthused. “Maybe Scotty can beam us there.”

“He won’t,” I rolled my eyes. “I just read that nobody on Star Trek ever said, ‘beam me up, Scotty.’ I reckon that’s why it never works.”

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Decency Be Damned: a seven-day roving writing workshop across Yorkshire, England, hosted by Writers’ Expeditions and Exploring York – from June 2nd to 8th, 2025.

We are sold out for 2025’s Decency Be Damned expedition, but if you’d like to be put on a waiting list for either a possible cancellation or to be notified about our next creative writing adventure across Scotland and Yorkshire in September of 2025, just email us at writers-expeditions@mail.com and CC kirstenkoza@gmail.com.

Writers of any genre of fiction and nonfiction: You are invited to leave your safety nets at home and join us for a rollicking week of writing across Yorkshire, where you’ll be encouraged—and enabled!—to go beyond the bounds of decency. You’ll acquire techniques and exercises used by actors on the stage and apply them to the page. With your pen or keyboard, you’ll improvise, method act, and perform dangerous feats. Inspiration will be gleaned from the activities we’ve planned and places we’ll stay. We’ll brave a ghost walk in Europe’s most haunted city, devour an orgasm of chocolates, and we’ll hunker down and write with an internationally bestselling crime novelist in the very hotel where Agatha Christie hid during the national manhunt for her. We’ll plot mayhem at the Guy Fawkes Inn, will spend a night in Lewis Carroll’s house, and we’ll feast on the exploits of the Vikings and Romans—of course, all the while, delighting in English countryside, seaside villages, and stately homes.

Writer’s block be damned! Decency be damned! This workshop is a daring adventure of storytelling and writing!

**Scroll down for itinerary, details, and prices for Decency Be Damned. This is a small group workshop which accommodates just 12 participants.**

The North Yorkshire Moors steam train we'll take to Whitby, where we'll stay in Lewis Carroll's Yorkshire home.
(The North Yorkshire Moors steam train that we’ll ride to Whitby, where we’ll stay for a night in Lewis Carroll’s Yorkshire vacation house, now a seaside boutique hotel with exotic themed rooms.)
The Stoker is one of the themed rooms at La Rosa boutique hotel (formerly Lewis Carroll's Yorkshire home). The view of the sea and Whitby Abbey (seen from that bed) inspired Bram Stoker to write "Dracula." (Photo courtesy of La Rosa)
(The Stoker is one of the fabulous themed hotel rooms [and we’ve booked them all again] at La Rosa boutique hotel [the house where Lewis Carroll summered]. Plus, the view of the sea and Whitby Abbey [seen from that bed] inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula. Photo courtesy of La Rosa)

Scroll down for itinerary, prices, and hosts’ bios. If you contact us, please know that we respond quickly by email: writers-expeditions@mail.com, and please CC kirstenkoza@gmail.com, if you don’t hear back, either we didn’t receive your email, or our reply is possibly in your spam bin. We can also be messaged from our Writers’ Expeditions Facebook page, which seems to work without fail.  

Yorkshire tea. (photo taken during our 2018 expedition by your workshop host, Kirsten Koza)
(Yorkshire tea, photo by your workshop host, Kirsten Koza, on our 2018 expedition)

TOUR ITINERARY 

Monday, June 2nd, 2025

Afternoon: check in at our hotel (owned by Hilton) at Monk Bar, which is a 14th century gate (not a bar) and is also the largest and most ornate entrance to the walled city.

Afternoon & Evening: meet & greet at our warm-up writing workshop, in the hotel bar (an actual bar and one with an extensive gin menu), before we head to dine at the Guy Fawkes Inn (which also has fabulous vegan, veg, and gluten-free options). This medieval inn is the birthplace of the infamous plotter, Guido Fawkes.

Guy Fawkes painting by Henry Perronet Briggs (c. 1823) titled Discovery of the Gunpowder Plot (public domain)
(Discovery of the Gunpowder Plot, a painting by Henry Perronet Briggs, public domain)

9:00 pm – Ghost Tour: York is home to some of the world’s more notorious ghosts. It was named the most haunted city in Europe, and tonight our guide promises to give us the creeps as he reveals York’s spooky secrets around each dark corner of the cobbled streets.

The Shambles, at night, York (Photo by Kirsten Koza)
(Our 2019 participants strolling The Shambles, at night, on our private ghost tour of York. Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

(Dinner, Ghost Tour, Overnight in York)

(Several of 2024’s participants ordered the vegan, bourguignon, pomp of pie, at the Guy Fawkes Inn, and devoured it with gusto. The inn is famous for their meat version of this pie, but you may order what you want from the fabulous and varied menu. Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions host)

Tuesday, June 3rd

Morning: After enjoying an English breakfast (or something lighter if you prefer), you’ll be given a writing prompt, and then our guide will take us on a tour (imbued with quirky trivia) of York Minster, the world’s third largest medieval gothic cathedral and York’s most acclaimed historical site.

Statue of Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, York Minster.
(Statue of Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, York Minster. Photo by George Hodan)

Then we’ll indulge in York’s Chocolate Story. Chocolate has resulted in renown and fortune for York for near 300 years. We’ll learn the art of the chocolatier and how to eat chocolate too – yes, we’ll receive a chocolate eating lesson. (Free time for writing and lunch.)

Yorkshire rarebit, in York. (photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers' Expeditions)
(Yorkshire rarebit, in York. Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)
Yorkshire Fat Rascals (Photo by our local guide and expert Matthew Greenwood, Exploring York)
(Yorkshire Fat Rascals. Photo by our local guide and expert Matthew Greenwood, Exploring York)

Afternoon: We’ll meander the  streets and alleyways of the walled city with our guide. Roman York became the birthplace of Western Christianity, but the Romans’ achievements were brutally exsanguinated when the Vikings transformed Jorvik into an international trading hub centuries ahead of its time, making Medieval York the capital of the North. We’ll visit the Jorvik Viking Centre, where we’ll ride a Jurassic Park-like theme ride through a life-size diorama of Viking Jorvik, complete with an authentic whiff of Viking life and ending in a museum of artifacts, including entire skeletons that are visibly afflicted with the ailments of the era, and a ginormous Viking coprolite (as in a fossilized Viking poop that has been compared to the crown jewels for its significance).

Cocktail Hour & Characters Workshop – and then free time for dinner and to explore more of York.

(Breakfast, Entrances to the Minster, Chocolate Story and tasting, and Viking museum, Overnight in York)

Wednesday, June 4th (pack your steamer trunk this morning, because today we take the steam train to the seaside where you’ll be writing yourself into scenes from Dracula and Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland or Through the Looking Glass while staying in the house that was a favourite of Lewis Carroll’s.)

Goathland's train station was a film location for the train station at Hogwarts. (photo by Kirsten Koza)
(Goathland’s train station was a film location for the train station at Hogwarts. Photo by Kirsten Koza)
Whitby, Yorkshire (photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers' Expeditions)
(Whitby Harbour, Yorkshire. Photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

Morning: breakfast – and then we’ll take the steam train along the North Yorkshire Moors Railway from Pickering through Goathland (film location for the Hogwarts Express train station at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry), and of course we’ll discuss the success of J.K. Rowling – the whys and hows – and how this relates to stories going viral on the Internet, and then we’ll continue our train ride to Whitby.

Afternoon: We’ll visit the coastal town of Whitby, the birthplace of Captain Cook. But, also, it was while visiting Whitby, after an exhausting theatrical tour, that Bram Stoker got inspiration for Dracula. Then it’s down (or should we go up?) the 199 steps from Whitby’s gothic abbey, culminating in the reward of award winning fish and chips (gluten free, vegetarian, and vegan options available). If you can’t do stairs, our driver will chauffeur you to the restaurant.

Whitby Abbey, Yorkshire. (photo by the fabulous George Hodan)
(Whitby Abbey, Yorkshire. Photo by the wonderful George Hodan)
Cod & Chips at The Magpie (photo by Kirsten Koza)
(Cod & Chips at The Magpie. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

Then we check in at La Rosa boutique hotel where they describe themselves as “more boudoir than boutique.”

Evening: cocktail hour and character readings in the lounge bar (which is all ours) at La Rosa. Then you’ll be given a unique writing prompt for the evening, followed by free time in Whitby to dine, explore, and write.

(Breakfast, Steam Train, Lunch, Whitby Abbey Tickets, Overnight at La Rosa in Whitby)

La Rosa, another one of the themed boudoirs at the hotel (Photo courtesy of La Rosa Hotel)
(La Rosa, another one of the themed boudoirs, with a sea view, at the hotel. Photo courtesy of La Rosa Hotel)
And just one more themed room to tease you and show you how varied they all are - this is the Lewis, inspired by Lewis Carroll's study. (Photo courtesy of La Rosa Hotel)
(And just one more themed room, with sea view, to tease you and show you how varied they all are – this is the Lewis, inspired by Lewis Carroll’s study. Photo courtesy of La Rosa Hotel)

Thursday, June 5th

Morning: Breakfast will be delivered to you in a hamper in your room this morning! Then we’ll check out of our hotel and travel through the countryside to Castle Howard where you’ll be given a “Decency Be Damned” writing assignment.

Castle Howard
(Castle Howard, North Yorkshire)

This Yorkshire stately home is one of Britain’s finest. It’s resplendent in world famous art and opulent architecture. You might recognize Castle Howard as it was used in both the TV and film adaptations of Evelyn Waugh’s book Brideshead Revisited.

Writing time: outside on Castle Howard’s spectacular grounds or at one of its indoor or outdoor patio cafes.

Temple of the Four Winds, at Castle Howard, Yorkshire.
(Temple of the Four Winds, at Castle Howard, Yorkshire)

Afternoon: We’ll take our private mini bus to the Yorkshire Dales National Park, where we’ll be dining and spending the night at The Lister Arms Hotel, in the perfect picture-postcard village of Malham. At this evening’s workshop, if you have bladder issues, you might want to pull on some diapers, because you’ll be laughing so hard you won’t just be crying.

(Lister Arms Hotel, Yorkshire Dales, Malham village, photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

Malham Cove was a film location used in "Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows" and is in walking distance from our lodgings.(Photo by George Hodan)
(Malham Cove was a film location used in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows and is in walking distance from our lodgings. Photo by George Hodan)

(Breakfast, Dinner, Castle Howard Entrance, both tonight and tomorrow night are spent at the Lister Arms in the village of Malham)

Friday, June 6th 

We have an exciting creative adventure planned for you today. Our writing workshop will be held in the courtyard of Richard III’s ruined castle.

Middleham, Yorkshire, So English (photo by Kirsten Koza)
(Middleham, Yorkshire – so English. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

We’ll have lunch at a country pub, and (in our private mini-bus) we’ll traverse the limestone scenery and the unique valleys known as dales. You’ll see stone-built villages, field barns, drystone walls, Swaledale sheep, flower-laden meadows, plus the Aysgarth Falls (you might remember these waterfalls from Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves), and the North Yorkshire village of Kettlewell (of Calendar Girls fame).

Kettlewell, Yorkshire (photo by Kirsten Koza)
Kettlewell, Yorkshire (Photo by Kirsten Koza)
Our views of North Yorkshire. (Photo by George Hodan)
(Our views while exploring North Yorkshire. Photo by George Hodan)

Free time, writing time, or perhaps a walk. You may dine on your own time, either over the bridge at The Buck Inn, or once again at The Lister Arms.

(Breakfast, Overnight at The Lister Arms)

Saturday, June 7th

Morning: After breakfast we’ll travel to a secluded valley to explore Fountains Abbey, one of the biggest and best preserved ruined (which sounds like an oxymoron) Cistercian monasteries in England.

(Fountains Abbey has hundreds of glorious acres to stroll or find your ideal spot to sit and write. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

(Image of Chloë, one of 2024’s participants, inside the ruins of Fountains Abbey)

(Some of 2019’s participants at an historic pub. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

Afternoon: We’ll stop at The Black Sheep Brewery for lunch, where you can also put finishing touches on your story before we head to Harrogate. We’ll check in at The Old Swan which is surrounded by idyllic English gardens and is just a three-minute walk from the spa town’s centre. Our hotel “combines Victorian splendour with contemporary luxury.” It was here where Agatha Christie hid in 1926, resulting in an 11-day national manhunt for her.

Evening: three course dinner in Harrogate at an excellent brasserie, and readings back at The Old Swan.

(Breakfast, Dinner, Overnight at The Old Swan in Harrogate)

Sunday, June 8th

The grand finale of Decency Be Damned: a fabulous day of murder led by internationally bestselling (and also, notably, a Sunday Times bestseller) crime novelist, David Mark—in the library, at The Old Swan, with something other than a lead pipe.

Sink into your armchair and prepare to write dangerously!

(David Mark, crime novelist from Yorkshire)

Before writing twenty acclaimed books, including the internationally bestselling Detective Sergeant Aector McAvoy series, David spent more than fifteen years as a journalist—and for seven of those years he was a crime reporter with The Yorkshire Post. This man knows murder, and you can tell when you read his books which aren’t just page-turners but are superbly crafted works of literature which engage all your senses.

David is a sought-after performer and public speaker at literary festivals, but the twelve of you have him all to yourselves.

David’s BBC Radio 4 drama, A Marriage of Inconvenience, aired the year before last, and his first novel is currently being adapted for the stage.

(David Mark at Penguin Random House: https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/authors/231321/david-mark/)

Today’s writing workshop with David will end around four PM, and you can either head to the Harrogate train station (just a mile from The Old Swan) to travel to your next destination or airport, or you can book another night at our group rate and enjoy the Turkish baths or a cream tea, in this Victorian spa town.

(Breakfast in the Wedgewood, the Victorian glass ceilinged dining room at The Old Swan, plus workshop with David Mark)

(Decency Be Damned’s 2024 participants with internationally bestselling crime novelist David Mark [up to no good in the back row], at the end of our murder mystery workshop…but why are two of the participants missing from this photo?)

BIOS OF EXPEDITION HOSTS – FOLLOWED BY PRICES, INCLUSIONS, AND MORE PHOTOS

Kirsten Koza (writing workshop host): is a humourist and adventurer. She is the author of the book, Lost in Moscow, published by Turnstone Press and dubbed by CBC radio Canada “the ultimate what-I-did-last-summer essay ever.” Kirsten edited the Travelers’ Tales (USA) humour anthology, Wake Up and Smell the Shit, and read thousands of stories for that book before narrowing it down to the 31 writers she selected for the volume. She’s had over 75 stories published in books, magazines and newspapers around the world and has repeatedly been invited to speak at the American Society of Journalists and Authors annual conference in New York, on the power of social media for writers and making stories go viral.

Kirsten has taught both postgraduate and 3rd year acting, in England, at the University of East London and East 15 Acting School (famous for method acting). She did her BA in theatre at Dalhousie University, in Canada, and her postgrad in the UK at E-15. The final production of her postgrad was staged in Yorkshire. Prior to becoming a professional writer, she worked in theatres across Canada and was the Artistic Director of Canada’s oldest professional summer theatre. Her theatre background has had a massive impact on how she writes, and she looks forward to sharing these methods and other tips with you on the Decency be Damned writing workshop, in Yorkshire.

You can read a couple of her adventures (published in books and magazines) by following these links, and you’ll probably surmise why the management at Travelers’ Tales publishing house affectionately call Kirsten “the Canadian lunatic”: “Chasing Tornadoes” published in the ninth volume of The Best Women’s Travel Writing books, and “The Mountain Men Who Don’t Exist in Kyrgyzstan” published by Perceptive Travel magazine.

Matthew Greenwood of Exploring York

Matthew Greenwood (your local guide & expert): created his tour company, Exploring York, in 2004, out of a love for his native county of Yorkshire and his lifelong passion for travel. He has guided a wide variety of groups ranging from policemen from Sudan to venture capitalists from New Mexico and adores showing visitors from around the globe his home city and county.

When Matthew was a child he wanted to be a hotel manager and had an almost encyclopedic knowledge of international hotel chains. His interest in all things travel continued through life. He says the reason we embark on journeys is for the unknown, to make discoveries outside our realm of imagination. His own travels have circled the planet. A chance-meeting with a charity worker led to a lifetime dream-trip to Rwanda where he walked among the mountain gorillas, something he couldn’t have imagined coming true when watching Gorillas in the Mist as a child. That trip also fed Matthew’s appetite for learning about war and atrocities and how humanity can endure and overcome. This passion has led to him taking self-study trips (what he calls holidays) to Bosnia, Serbia, Cambodia and Vietnam, where he and Kirsten met in Hanoi outside Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum.

Matthew has a keen interest and knowledge in all aspects of history, British and American politics and world affairs.

PRICES AND INCLUSIONS: prices include hotel accommodations – full breakfasts daily – three three-course dinners –  one lunch – daily tours -museum and historical site entrances – transportation (our own private mini-bus, and a steam train journey) while on tours – private guide – and writing workshops.

The price based upon a twin shared room is £2200 per person. If you prefer a single room all to yourself at the hotels, there is an additional hotel cost of £200 total, for the entire trip.

A deposit of £300 reserves your place (this amount comes off the total)Canadians and Americans can pay the deposit in dollars (CAD and US) – the currency conversion will be calculated on the day you make the payment.

The group size for this trip is just 12 participants! Please email Kirsten at writers-expeditions@mail.com (and to make sure we get your email please cc kirstenkoza@gmail.com), or message us from the Writers’ Expeditions Facebook page with any questions you might have. We respond quickly, so if you don’t hear back within 24 hours, please do try the method you didn’t, or check your spam bin for our reply.

EXCLUSIONS: international flights and transportation to and from the first and last hotels, alcohol.

Photos from previous expeditions:

(Photo through a window of some of 2024’s Decency Be Damned participants wandering the streets of Harrogate)

Bettys Cafe Tea Room, and that's not a typo - Bettys has no apostrophe however much you'd like to add one (photo by our guide, Matthew Greenwood, Exploring York)
(Bettys Cafe Tea Room, and that’s not a typo – Bettys has no apostrophe however much you’d like to add one. Photo by our guide, Matthew Greenwood, Exploring York)
2019's Decency Be Damned participants on the steam train. (photo by Kirsten Koza)
(Some of 2019’s Decency Be Damned participants on the adult version of the “Hogwarts Express.” Photo by Kirsten Koza)

(York Minster, photo by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions, Yorkshire, England)

(Getting absinthe minded at characters and cocktail hour, photo by Brittany Moone, 2024)

(Evening at Whitby Beach which is a very short walk from our hotel. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

(Decency Be Damned participants don their Guy Fawkes masks before dinner at the Guy Fawkes Inn. Photo by your expedition host, Kirsten Koza)

(The Shambles in York. Photo by Kirsten Koza. Some of the street’s buildings date back to the 14th century.)

Yorkshire Dales (Photo by George Hodan)
(Yorkshire Dales. Photo by George Hodan)

(Decency Be Damned participants travelling through the Yorkshire Dales on our private bus. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

(Decency Be Damned 2024 read their stories of great indecency at The Buck Inn, in Malham, Yorkshire)

Driving through the Yorkshire Countryside in the Spring (photo by Kirsten Koza)
(Driving through the Yorkshire countryside in the spring. Photo by Kirsten Koza)

(Decency Be Damned, Writers’ Expeditions. Photo by your host, Kirsten Koza)

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Our annual Halloween adventure across Romania (including our private dinner party on Halloween night in the room where Vlad Dracula was born inside the medieval walled city of Sighisoara, and also the Halloween party held at Dracula’s Castle in Bran) will run from October 28 through to the end of the day on November 3rd in 2025. The full details for the Vlad Dracula Expedition can be found here: https://kirstenkoza.com/expeditions/vlad-dracula-expedition-halloween-romania-2025/

(Photo of Corvin Castle by Kirsten Koza, Writers’ Expeditions)

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