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Was Kyrgyzstan a Big DO or DON’T?

I want to clean my vomit off my bicycle shoes but I’m low on water. I’m low on oxygen too, nearing the peak of Chok-Tol (4770 metres). The altitude isn’t making me sick. I’ve chosen to blame Kyrgyzstan’s national beverage, fermented mare’s milk, which was served to me by nomads in the Chong-Kemin valley. My up-chuck tastes exactly like the horse milk did going down. Okay, I’m exaggerating a little because I’m furious with my guide, Elena. Actually, she outdid Marcel Marceau when she mimed ‘DON’T drink the kumis’. Regardless, I’m still mad. It’s the first day of my three-week mountain bike trip and it’s a disaster… (FULL ARTICLE ON PAGE 8)